Mardi 15 avril 2008 2 15 /04 /Avr /2008 10:53

New Zealand--Christchurch  March 16 / La Nouvelle Zelande...Christchurch...16 mars 2008

Arrived from Brisbane, we said bye to Australia after a loverly time in that wonderful and beautiful country and the great people we met along our travels in Australia. 
We arrived in the afternoon and spent 2 hours going through immigration and customs. They are more severe since this is an island. They double and double check us and luggage, they did the same Australia which is also an island. On the other hand we didn't need a visa here in N.Z. We are allowed to stay for three months.

Nous sommes arrives le 16 mars ...depart de Brisbane en Australie...ce fut un peu difficile de quitter ce beau pays apres 3 superbe mois pour moi ..Gilles F.
Ca pris un peu de temps au douane (2 heures) mais ils ont fini par nous laisser aller...ouff...pas besoin de visa si vous rester moins de 3 mois mais vous devez leurs montrer la date que vous aller quitter le pays (voir votre billet de depart... meme chose en Australie...il on peur que vous voulez travailler et rester dans le pays de facon permanente)
Where we stayed: two nights with Bruce  a member of our blue book exchange  program. He also runs a B & B .

hebergement : Nous avons passer 2 nuits chez un membre de notre livre du programme d' echange (L/GHEI) chez Bruce Morrison qui gere un gite.

March 17: St.Patrick Day. People were dressed in green on the streets today.We had a very good and long night sleep since we had to get up at 4:30 am to go to the airport for an early flight. We are sometime limited in our choices since we travel with the cheapest flights. We jumped three hours, since N.Z. is 3 hours latter then Australia.
We had a busy day , a lot to do in a short time because we have to be in Te Anau which is around 9 hours drive from here on Wednesday night  to be ready for our 4 days hike in the Milford Sound Track starting early Thursday morning. We got different info and looked at what would be the best and most economical way for us to travel in the next two months here inN.Z.: bus, train , flying, renting a car or buying a car which is very common here through the Backpackers group. They agree to buy the car back at 50%  if it is still in good condition.
After spending some time readiing info and phoning and visiting car places we came to the decision it would be most practical and economical to buy a car. So by 7 pm after looking at different possibilities we  decided on one with some camping gear. This options is giving us more  freedom and opportunities to visit and stop where we want to. This was a busy and stressfull time. We also did some shopping at the same time for things we needed for the hikes. It is colder here and especially in the mountains so we had to buy a few warmer clothes after spending many months in rather warm and hot climate areas. Being autumn here,summer is over, so  we encountered many great sales in icebreaker clothes. 

We finished the day very happy and tired. We are picking our new (older...1990 Subaru Legacy...station Wagon...to sleep in the car if ever we get stuck) car tomorrow and after going to the post office to register the car in our name, to CAA to get maps and to register here in N.Z. and we will be our our way to Queenstown and Te Anau the next day to start our first 4 day hike. We will sell the car in our last days in N.Z.  around May 16.
 17 Mars et 18 mars
Nous nous sommes promenes dans cette belle petite ville de 350 000 habitants. Nous avons achete du materiel afin d' etre pret pour nos randonnees de planifie en NZ. Nous avons egalement pris la decision de s'acheter une vieille voiture (plusieurs personnes font cela ici...c'est pratique commune et le systeme d' assurance est habitue) afin de voyager un peu partout durant nos 2 mois ici...ce sera moins dispendieux et nous aurons plus de liberter d' aller dans les endroits un peu plus perdu et moins touristiques...nous avons paye 1900$ pour une Subaru 1990 station Wagon 4 portes...ca va tres bien...l' essence est dispendieuse ici..1,80$ du litre...Merci Stephane Bouchard pour nous avoir parler des Ice Breaker ...vetements de sport et pour randonnees de tout genre qui sont anti bacterien..donc ne retienne pas d' odeurs...il faut prendre une douche quotidienne par contre...ces vetements sont tres populaire ici car ils ont ete cree ici...le 18 apres midi nous avons pris la route pour Queenstowns afin de commencer notre marche de 53 km La Milford trail reservee pour le 20 au matin.
.CHRISTCHURCH (344 100 habitants)----QUEENSTOWN (8 500 HABITANTS)

March 18: Left for Queenstown to start our walks.  Wow what awesomme scenery!!!!!!We are in the mountains. Lovery drive along the coast, mountains on one side and a huge and long beautiful lake with mountains also on the other side.  We drive through 3/4  high passes where we see snow and glaciers around Cook's mountain. a great feeling as we are surrounded by huge mountains.

Gilles F. has been driving in Australia so he is used to driving on the left by now so it is now my turn to learn to drive on the left side of the road. quite an experience! You need to remember stick to the center of the road and when you turn right, stay on the outside and when you turnm left stay on the inside. Everything is reversed. Quite scary at first.

QUEENSTOWN: 
WHERE WE STAYED:  Backpackers Hostel. Beautiful small touristic city. 
we visited for a few  hours, bought some of the food and clothing we needed and left for Te Anau;
 
The Hostels are very practical and very clean and well organized. The kitchens are very convenient .
The average price is $25pp with $5 more pp we get a double room all by ourselves so it is more quite you don't have to sleep with  4, 6, 8 people. 

Belle petite ville touristique entouree de belles montagnes. Nous sommes demeures dans un gite rempli de jeunes voyageurs qui voyagent a prix reduit...et demeure dans des endoits peu dispendieux...25 $ par nuit pour un lit jumeau (bunker bed) de 2 ,4 ,6 ,8 et parfois 10 par chambre. C' est tres bien quand les jeunes ne font pas la fete... 

  TE ANAU (1 785 habitants)

WHERE WE STAYED: STEAMERS BACKPACKERS HOSTEL: CLOSE TO THE LAKE AND TOWN CENTRE.

Hebergement : dans un hostel a prix modique

MILFORD TRACT


First thing in the morning we got to  the DO C building where we get all the info for the tracks. We had reserved the Milford Sound Track which is a 4 days and three nights sleeping in the huts. The Milford is supposed to be the most popular and the best in N.Z. we were fortunate  to be able to it with just one month's notice.

WOW AGAIN!! WHAT AN EXPERIENCE!!! Quite challenging at times for me with my difficulty with my balance. My walking sticks allowing me to do such tracks.  They are very well organized her with the buses to get you to your track. For the Milford we drove apart way and parked the car where we took the boat(  1 hours ) to the start of the track. At the end we take another boat (20 minutes) to Milford Sounds where we catch another bus to our car.

THE MILFORD SOUND TRACK: (53.5 KM) is in the heart of spectacular Fiordland National Park- World Heritage Area  of South West N.Z. The track is located in the southwest of the South Island. The track starts at the head of Lake Te Anau and finishes at Milford Sound. When we start the track we need to carry all we will n eed for the 4 days, sleeping, food, pots and pan, dishes seelping backs, sun galsses, sun screen, insect repellent etc. The huts we sleep in have the very basics: bed ( no linen) and the kitchen have a gas stove.

The Milford tract is renowed for dramatic alpine scenery, crystal clear rivers and ancient beech forest.
The first day we only do 5 km . We drive to the boat from Te Anau (20minutes) since we arrive by boat at 11:30.(1.5 hr)

Day 2: 16.5 kms  6 hours. it is a gra1ual climb to the first hut at the base of the Mackinnon Pass that we will cross the nest day.  The weather was good for the ist day and drisling most of the 2 day. We made it in time to the hut before the big downfall for many hours which cleared the way for the next day..

Day 3:  14kms 6-7 hours
We continue climbing to the Pass (1069m) The pass was very windy and cold and we where in the clouds so we coudn't see very much. We were glad to reach the shelter on the top were we had a cup of soup to warm up. 
The 8 km walk form the pass to our next night hut drops 970 m steady over rocky , uneven terrain an provides spectacular views. For many walkers as myself this is the most difficult part of the track.  We are suggested to take regular 5 minutes rests on the down hill section- so our knees and ankles will be very happy. I did take the full 7 hours to do the track that day, the climbing was okay but the downhill was quite challenging at times. I made it with only 2 falls. And I wasn't the last one to the hut.

Day 4: 18km   5.5 - 6 hours Again it is up and down but mostly down and still some challenging places in the rocks. I find coming down in rocks more challenging then climbing. Again the scenery was very awesome in the forest. We are in  a reinforest so we can expect rain at least for one day.
 We made it in time for the 2 o'clock boat to be able to catch the 4:15 bus back to Te Anau.

Day 5: Rest and relax our legs sure needed a rest. We planned the next track for tomorow Tuesday.

Tuesday 25: We get up at 6 am to catch the 7:30 bus back to
Queenstown and catch the 12:30 bus for the Routeburn Track Which we sill start around 3 pm to arrive around 7pm.
THE ROUTEBURN TRACK: WHICH TRAVERSES  32 km of Mount Aspiring Fiordland National Park.
The Famous Routeburn :is a three day walk in to the heart of the Southern Alps untouched wilderness. Pristine rivers, ferns,mopses, an cloyd scraping mountains surround us.

Day 1: ROUTEBURN SHELTER TO ROUTEBURN FLATS HUT; 6.5 km  1.5 - 2.5 hours
We are fortunate the weather is clearing up as we are about to take the 2nd bus to take us to the start of the track.
Routeburn Shelter (where the bus drops us ) to Routeburn Flats Hut (day hut) :
6.5 km 1.5- 2.5 hours  An easy graded track at first.

Routeburn Flats to Routeburn Falls Hut:
2.3 km 1-1.5 hours  From here is is a steady climb where we have excellent views of the valley below. Here are signs of beware of early or late season avalanches that can happen. easy enough climb so far as we get to the 1st hut where we sleep. A shorter day today.

Routeburn Falls to Lake Mackenzie Hut
11.3 km  4.5-6 hours
Here we continue to climb  steadily to the pass. We are now in s sub-alpine section of track that is very exposed and can be extremely hazardous in adverse weather conditions. We are told to leave early because it is suppose to rain and going through the pass could be difficult. We were fortunate becasue no rain and only sun for the 2 nd day. We are still in the sub-apine section of the mountain above the tree line and we see wonderful herbs and suchion plants which are a feature of the vegetation here.
Wow again!!!! Magnificient views of the mountains, we are high enough to see different mountain ranges. I am running out of world to describe the best way possible those great views.
This beautiful part of the track was the most difficult part of the track for me. We started off from the morning hut right to the sleeping hut on rocks all day long., up and down and especially up and at the end down to the hut. Going up is easier for me on those rocks but coming down is very challenging for me. I was happy to reach the hut in the afternoon. I took the full 6 hours to do the track.

Lake Mackenzie Hut to Lake Howden Hut (Day 3)
8.6 km, 3-4 hours
We started off in rain and it rained all day. We left early because when it rains it doesn't take long to flood some areas. We were  fortunate no floods but we had to walk through some water and mud.
Here we climb again for a while and gradullay descended.

Lake Howden Hut to the Divide
3.4 km-- 1-1.5 hours
We made it to the Lake Howden Hut where we stop for a cup of tea to warm up and get out of the rain for a short while.Encouraged because we only had a short walk to finish and we were going down to the Divide where the bus was picking us up to take us back to TEAnau.
At the Divide shelter we were happy to change into drier and warmer clothes and waited for the bus. On the way back, the bus had a flat tire so we made it back to our Backpackers place slowly and happy to be back.
We went for pizza for supper and then went to the Spa to warm up and relax our feet and knees.

Nevertheless we very much enjoyed our walks. As I mentioned before , here in the rainforest we can expect to have rain one day out of three. Since the weather is for more rain for the next three days we decided to leave in the morning and start our way up the South Island and do others shorter walks along the way. We are very happy that we were able to do two of the most important and beautiful walks in N.Z. We will never forget some of those magnificient views of the N.Z. mountains. We are looking forward to see more.

Today we went to the Doc centre and got our certificate for those two walks. We are very proud. I am particularly happy and proud for the challenge that I just finished in those two walks which were not that easy for me. I am very thankful for my walking sticks.

Hope you are all well and we will talking again soon as we move up the South Island.

  Francais 
20 au 23 mars -Randonnee pedestre de la Milford Track et de la Routeburn Track

Cette marche est cotee d' une des plus belles au monde dont la plus populaire en NZelande. Elle est egalement dans les top 10 plus belles en Nouvelle Zelande. Les paysages sont feeriques...des falaises abruptes, des arbres recouverts de mousses vertes, l' eau de couleure verte et bleue transparente...super beau. Elle se fait en 4 jours dont 5 km -16,5 km- 14 km et 18 km pour un total de 53 km . Elle se ferait tres bien en 3 jours mais les responsables en ont fait une randonnee de 4 jours. Elle est assez facile mais peu etre plus exigente s'il y a de la pluie car les roches peuvent devenir glissantes. De plus plusieurs personnes nous ont dit que parfois les mouches noires et les maringouins peuvent etres tres embetants...nopus avons ete tres chanceux car une seule journee de pluie et pas de moustiques... Vous devez reserver cette randonnee d' avance car il limite le nombre de marcheurs du au nombre limites de place dans les huttes pour dormir. On doit egalement transporter notre nouriture tout le long des 4 jours car vous etes vraiment dans le bois...pas de resto et de depanneur !!! pas de probleme pour la question d' eau potable car dans les huttes vous pouvez faire le plein de meme que durant la journee dans les nombreux petits ruisseaux...Cette randonnee commence a Te-Anau down (environ 30 minutes de voiture de TeAnau) et vous devez reserver votre billet pour un tour de bateau (grand lac entoure de montagnes gigantesques) de 1 heure qui vous amenera au depart de la trail. Pour les gens qui me connaissent...il m' est arrive une petite aventure des la premiere journee...apres avoir commence a marcher (20 min.) une idee me vient en tete...ou est-ce que j' ai mis les clefs de notre voiture ??? j' ai fouille partout...pas trouve...seule place possible...elle serait tombe de mes poches soit en courant du stationnement au bateau ou bien sur le bateau meme...j' ai donc ete porte mon sac a dos a la 1 ere hutte (5 km) pour passer la nuit...et j' ai dita G.B que je retournait voir sur le bateau et s' il ne sont pas la...je reprendrai le bateau et ferai le memetrajet que ce matin afin de les retrouver...et je coucherai a l' hostel pour la nuit et reprendrai le bateau le lendemain matin et completerai les 2 trajets afin de coucher a la seconde hutte comme prevue...et bien...c' est ca qui s' est produit...j' ai retrouve mes clefs juste sur le bord du stationnement a l' entree du petit sentier ...donc tout s' est bien termine mais ...lecon...avoir des poches avec fermeture car tres facile d' echapper quelque chose ...cela a ete un bon entrainement pour moi...5 km n' etait pas assez donc...la peur que j' ai eu ? nous avions seulement se set de clefs pour notre voiture...pas tres brillant...lecon 2...nous avons fais faire un autre set de clef a notre retour de cette marche...Ce fut 4 jours magnifiques dans le sens que la beaute des paysages, le calme total er un sentiment de LIBERTE...

Suite a cette marche de 4 jours , nous avons pris une journee de repos (24 mars) et decider de commencer une seconde randonnee des le lendemain matin 25 mars...une autre trail cote dans les 10 plus belles en Nouvelle Zelande...La Routeburn Trail...une marche de 3 jours dont 2 nuits dans des huttes. La piste est divisee en 3 etapes : 6,5 km - 11,3 -et  8,6 km. Elle est egalement magnifique...on marche entoure de montagnes avec des sommets enneiges...il y a beaucoup de roches faisant en sorte que la pluie rend la marche plus difficile et glissante...mais je la recommande fortement...allez voir vous meme nos photos a facebook dans l' album de la Nouvelle zelande...pour les gens qui n' ont pas une compte ...vous devez vous ouvrir un compte (gratuit) et en francais egalement ( www.facebook.fr.com) ou en anglais ( www.facebook.com)  et vous devez mettre mon adresse couriel  qui est ( butchott@hotmail.com)  avec cela vous pourrez avoir acces a nos photos...ca vaut la peine...

28-29 mars...NOus avons passe la journee du 28 mars a nous reposer car la derniere journee de march de la Routeburn...pluie toute la journee...un peu moins agreable mais c' est la vie...ca nous a permis de voir une multitude de chutes d'eau venant des montagnes que l'on ne peut pas voir quand il fait sec et beau. Mais cette pluie et le temps un peu froid m;ont donne un bon rhume...un vrai...je planifiais faire un 3 jours de randonnee sur la Kepler track (+ de 60 km en 3 jours) qui est cote dans les 10 plus belle de la NZ egalement...j'ai annule.
Le 29 mars au matin nous sommes alles visiter la petite ville tres huppee de Wanaka (3 500 habitants) qui est entouree de grosses montagnes...nous avons fait une journee de randonnee de 3 heures et sommes retournes coucher a Alexandra pour une seconde nuit. pour les gens qui veulent voyager a prix economique...vous pouvez devenir membre d'une association (Affordable Travel ...qui au depart etait seulement pour les enseignants mais ouvert a tout le monde maintenant)) qui coute 75 $ par annee ...c' est une association international donc vous pouvez coucher chez les membres pour seulement 30 $ par couple par nuit...le dejeuner compris...ca vaut la peine...il y a plus d' une association donc chercher les autres par vous meme..

March 28, 2008


We left Te Anau on our way to Alexandra where we will stay for 2 nights with  a couple from AFC(Affortable Travel Group ).On the way we stopped at Queenstown for a 2.5 hour walk in the mountain where we got a great view of the city and dthe beautiful lake.  We arrived at our guests for dinner(supper). We were greeted with a big smile and a glass of wine followed by a venison(deer) steak dinner. We had wanted to taste the venison(name for deer in NZ) for a while, here they serve it in the restaurants. As I mentioned earlier here in N.Z. they have been raising deers like cattle for the last 30 years.

The next day, March 29, we went to Wanaka, another small tourist town which is growing all the time. We did  the Diamond Lake  Track  a 3 hours or so walk and climb. This popular Track traverses a spectacular mass of rock, originally shaped by glacial action, and now a platform folr thousands of walkers each year.

..
.The Track is in the Mt Aspiring National Park. The 775 metre summit of Rocky Mountain is a great place to view Lake wanaka and its two largest islands. WOW again!!! What an experience and view, a 360 view of the surrounding mountains, lakes and islands.To the west we can also see the stunning peaks of Mount Aspiring National Park- a skyline dominated by Mount Aspiring.

In the afternoon we visited the town meeting many, many tourists. It is a town very similar to Queenstown but more quiet. Some people prefer to come here because it is more quiet. I personally preferred Queensstown yet it was worthwhile to visit and especially the walk.Again we had a great dinner wsith our host. We left the next morning for Oamaru. A very special Thank You Robert for your warm and friendly hospitality.

     March 30 , April 1st&2 , 2008/       Oamaru (12 000 habitants)     30 mars- 1 et2 avril 2008
                        
Nous nous sommes diriges ensuite sur le bord de la cote afin de nous rendre a Oamaru afin de passer 2 jours chez um membre de l'association L/GHEI   qui est enseignant (physique 12 e annee) dans une ecole secondaire et qui gere son propre B & B. Super bel acceuil de Doug ...nous devoins rester seulement 2 jours mais il nous a invite a demeurer aussi longtemps que l' on voulait car c' est l' automne ici et la saison des touristes est termine donc sa maison n' est pas occupe. Il nous a fait faire le tour de la belle petite ville...architecture tres differente...on dirait une ville Grecque car plusieurs batiments ont ete construit avec de la roche blanche (limestone)...vraiment unique. De plus, la ville a ete tres importante car c' est ici que l' on a commence le transport de la viande de boeuf gele et envoye un peu partout a travers le monde...Nous sommes egalement alles voir des formatios de roches tres anciennes qui se trouvent sur le bord d' une plage a Moeraki...petit village de pecheurs...avec un super restaurant de fruits de mer...qui est devenu populaire suite a Gwyneth Paltrow (actrice) lors d' un tournage de film dans cet endroit. Nous avons mange a ce petit restaurant afin de remercier Doug de sa generosite...le repas etait excellent. Nous sommes alles egalement nous promener dans la campagne afin de voir cette formation de roche...Unique.

We had a loverly drive through the mountains again on our way to the east coast and up to Oamaru. Here we are greeted by our host from the blue book exchange Doug.  Again with a glass of wine followed by another good and great dinner. The company seems to always make the dinner part more interesting and pleasant. We are really getting to enjoy the wine part of our trip.

The next day we took time to rest and relax in the am. After lunch and a short nap we left with our host for a drive in the country side where  we say more mountains, sheep and cattle. The fields are greener here since they have introduced a new irrigation system. We also drove along the coast of the Pacific Ocean on to Moeraki to see the special boulders on the shore. These boulders grow in the soil starting very tiny and they grow over thousands of years to big rocks which they call boulders. The Waves erode the soil and rocks and these boulders emerge. See the pictures. It is interesting to see these boulders on there way out of the soil.

We then went for dinner in the small fishing village of Moeraki in a great seafood restaurant in an old restored fisherman's building.  Wow what quality of food and not expensive with  a very good bottle of wine recommended by the owner. We are so well here with Doug that we decided to stay another day here and relax and rest. The walks are gettingto us so we will rest a little longer.

  April 3

We continued to relax a little in the morning while Gilles F. worked on Facebook getting the pictures up to date. He also prepared some separate pictures that we can send to those who don't have Facebbook.We left around 2 pm for Christchurch a 4.5 hours drive. We arrived in Christchurch around 6:30 and we were greeted by Ann and Lynne in their home(AFC, Affortable Travel exchange program). WE quickly went for a bit to eat and came back visisting for ad while.

April 4:

We got up early and had breakfast and left for Akaroa,another touristic city (1.5 hours drive from Christchurch).

AKAROA FRENCH CONNEXION
Akaroa is situated  deep in the former volcanic Banks Peninsula region just 82 km from Christchurch. This charming French settelment is set on a beautiful sheltered harbour and overlooked by craggy volcanic hills ia a very popular resort town.We enjoyed the fantastic scenic beauty, interesting multi-cultural history & amazing wildlife. Akaroa is positioned as a romantic retreat with fanstatic mixture of eco-leisusre relatied activities & fine  culinary experiences.

OIn 1840 this area was settled by French settlers who had intented to establish a colony. The area still has a French influence, reflected in many local place names. The name Akaroa translate from Maori ( the  first people whio came to Akaroa) as "long harbour". In the morning we did a 2.5 hour walk up one of the mountains close to the town. What a view when we got on top . We had our lunch and returned to the town. Gilles F. did another 3 hour walk while I visited the town, the harbour etc.

I visited the Museum which is one of the best town museums in New Zealand. Of special interest was the educational video that gives a great account of local history and the important part this area has played in history. Hector's Dolphins( small blue dophins) are found in the harbour ( we had seen some in Oamaru when they come to shore at night and rest, they can travel up to 70km during their day fishing)and you can also go out and swim with the dolphins which is a major tourist attraction among other activities as most of these touristic towns.
Other things to do in Akaroa include relaxing in seaside cafes, perusing galleries , arts, and crafts and following Maori , colonial and maritime trails and wandering through heritage gardens. The last two activities where those that we choose to do as we only had one day. We often realize that there is only so much that we can and want to do. We returned  to our hosts' home around 9 pm , a long day.

April 5
After a good 10 hours sleep, a great breakfast prepared by our hosts, an interesting conversation we left to go and visit the International Antartica Centre, twice judged NZ's best attraction and is Christchurch leading attraction. We have the opportunities go into real snow and ice & experience an Antartic strom all in the polar room. This will be the only snow we will have seen and felt this winter.And we didn't miss it. We also visited the NZ Penguin Encounter, this state of the art encounter houses up to 26 Little Blue penguins.  As a matter of fact we weren't to impress, we thought that we would see more  and learn more of the activities going on in the Antartic. it is mostly scientific people who work there, doing research. I guess it is quite an experience for both adults and kids who have never seen or experience snow and snowstorms.

We then drove to where we will stay for 3 days to relax and do some short walks. A friend with whom we stayed in Christchurch before invited us to take care of his house while he is away for a short holiday. Isn't that great that people trust us like this. We have our own home for three days in the second largest city in NZ.

April 5 to 8---

On  Sunday  morning we went to the Ricarton Rotary Market which is NZ 's largest general market with up to 300 stalls sellinbg crafts, jewellery, furniture, anntiques,clothing,plants, produce. Very popular market for both the locals and the  tourists.  In the afternoon Gilld F. went to the gymn and had a sleep while I went to  The
Arts Centre Market and walked in the Botanical Garden,one of the best I have seen in NZ. Here in NZ  and iin Australia they don't have parks, they call them Botanical Gardens. Monday it rained most of the day. Gilles F. went tothe gymn and i stayed behind to workd on the blog and Facebook to be up to date. At night I went to see a movie. La vie en Rose of Edith Piaf. wow what a movie, a movie to be seen. From childhood to glory... from triump to despair, the captivating life of Edith PIAF, the most immortal singer of them all.

Tuesday April 8 we are leaving for Hanmer Springs, to take in a few hot Springs bath and a few walks. Then on to Punakaki also one of the most beautiful little town on the West Coast for one night ,then on to the top of the South Island , Motueka where we will explore the Abel Tasman National Park also one of the most beautiful Park. It is amazing how many very beautiful Parks they have hee in NZ.

Leaving the City of Christchurch Population of 344.100
Christchurch boasts a vibrant city centre with cultural activities, great shoppings, bars, restaurants, cafes and attractions all within easy walking distance.

Cathedral Square: right in the middle of the city, the Cathedral is a stunning architectual structure built in gothic tradition from Canterbury stone and timber, and completed in 1881. In around the sqaure are some of the city's exclusive hotels, as well as cinema, aquarium, bars and restaurants.  You will find plenty to satisfy and excite you within half a dozens blocks each side of the square.
The Botanic Gardens : it's one of the city's most stiking features- an oasis of greenery stretching across more than 500 acres of the central city, giving Christchurch its title - the Garden City.

The Arts Centree sitting across from the botanic Gardens, it occupies  beautiful gothic buildings that originally housed the University of Canterbury. Now they are home to over 40 crafts shops, boutiques, galleries and cafes, as well as contemporay and traditional artists studios.


 
du 3 au 5 avril 2008...francais

Nous sommes partis de Oamaru dans l' apres midi afinde nous rendre a Christchurch pour coucher chez des membres de Affordable travel. Le 4 au matin, apres un bon dejeuner servi par nos hotes, nous nous sommes diriges vers Akaroa...village forme a partir d' une ancienne colonie francaise (le capitaine Jean Langlois avait negocier l' achat de la peninsule avec des Maoris qui avait accepter mais alors qu' il est retourne en France pour amener du monde...a son retour les Anglais avaient envahiit la place...nous avons fait une marche de 2 heures et ensuite G.B a fait la visite du petit village pendant que je suis retourne faire une seconde randonnee de 3 heures...vue superbe du village et du lac...des moutons partout dans les pres...la paix totale...Le 5 avril nous avons pris le gros dejeuner (oeufs avec bacon) avec nos hotes avant de nous diriger vers la visite du centre international de l' Antartique...gros nom mais ne nous a pas vraiment impressionne...interessant pour les gens qui ne connaissent pas le froid et la neige mais pour les Canadiens et surtout les Manitobains....ca ne vaut pas le DETOUR croyez-moi...

du 5 au 8 avril au matin

Nous avons un condo (B & B) pour 4 jours dont 3 nuits a nous seul...le proprietaire nous a laisse sa place pendant qu'il est parti faire de la randonnee pres du Mont Cook...glacier a environ 5 heures de Christchurch...ca fait du bien...seul pendant quelques jours...se reposer...mettre a jour notre blog et nos photos sur facebook...visiter un peu la ville en prenant des marches de sante...aller au marche  (Riccarton Rotary market) qui a lieu tous les dimanche matin de 9h00 a 14h00...le marche le plus grand en NZ...plus de 300 kiosques...tres interessants...G.B. est alle voir le film d' Edith Piaff..la vie en rose...il a beaucoup apprecie...a voir .. vie difficile mais  ...

*8 avril
Nous prenons la route vers Hamner Springs...environ 1h30 d' ici afin de faire une bonne randonnee en apres-midi et d' aller se saucer dans un bain d' eau minerale chaude naturelle (Hot Spring ) comme nous avons a certains endroits au canada...


April 8
HAMNER SPRINGS(pop 750 habitants permanent)

le 8 au matin nous nous sommes rendus dans ce petit village ou il y a des sources d' eaux thermales...les seules sur l' Ile du Sud...nous avons commence par faire une randonnee d' environ 1 heure avant d' aller se reposer dans les picines (15 de differente temperature) d' eau chaude naturelle...super agreable et relaxant...ensuite nous sommes alles dans le petit motel ou nous allons passer la nuit...on a fait du troc...les proprietaires nous ont laisse la suite (cuisine et tout le tralala pour faire sa propre cuisine) en echange de massages...pas de probleme...moyen economique de voyager...
Left for Hanmer Springs (2HOURS)  (POP 750)

Hanmer Springs is the main thermal resort on the South Island. Visitors swell  the population year-round . The town is considered like a retreat  where people can indulge  in pampering and fine dining. The town has many forest walks which we  took advantage. . The hot spring water mixes with fresh water(smell sulfur !!) to produce pools of varying temperatures. There are around 15 different pools. We really enjoyed the hot spring after our walks.
Where we stayed: Spa Lodge Motel recommended by our host in Christchurch who told them that Gilles F. was a great massage therapists , so they offered free lodging in return for 2 massages. They offered us quite a nice little motel room with a kitchen, worth $110. Thank you Dennis and Lance. More savings.

Punakaiki & Paparoa National Park (9 et 10 avril)

le 9 avril , nous sommes alles a Punakaiki...petite ville situee a 5 heures de Hanmer Spring. La conduite est super agreable car les paysages sont feeriques...les routes tres sinueuses (croches) et vous devez etre prudent car il n'y a aucune balise pour empecher les voitures de tomber dans les ravins ou les champs !!! et les routes sont assez etroites. Le petit village visite est populaire a cause de la formation de roches appele "Pancake rocks" (les roches en formation de CREPES )...vraiment unique ! mais il y a aussi plusieurs randonnees pedestres pour les amateurs...G.B est alles voir les roches CREPES alors que je suis alles faire une marche de 3 heures...super beau. Nous sommes reste coucher dans un Hostel sur le bord de la mer...dans une belle petite cabine...tres tranquille et reposant...le coucher du soleil  etait a voir... Le lendemain matin nous sommes alles faire une autre randonnee The Inland Pack Track...marche de 4 heures dans des forets tropicales avant de conduire pour se rendre a Motueka...chemin tres sinueux et des montees / descentes assez dangereuses...mais decors incroyables...

April 9:   We left for Punakaiki,small tourist little town on the West Coast (5hours). We visited the town of Greymouth on the West Coast. Punakaiki is a small settlement on the dorrstep of the sensationally  39,000 hectare Paparoa National Park.
Punakaiki is famous for its splendiferous Pancake Rocks and blowholes. The Dolomite Point Limestone has formed into what looks like piles of thick pancakes.. When the tide is high the sea surges into caverns below and booms intimidately through blowholes. They have arranged a very interesting walk loop through the rocks and blowholes. Very beautiful to see. The region is also  blessed with very high sea cliffs, toothy mountains, rivers, diverse flora and a Westland petrel colony, the world's  only nesting site of this rare sea bird.

Where we stayed: Backpackers  Beach Hostel on the beach, right on the ocean.
WE had our own little cottage facing the ocean. The weather was great... sunny and warm. We cooked our own dinner as usual and went to bed early getting ready for the next day. It gets dark as soon as the sun goes down around 6 or 6:30 and not much to do at night in some areas.

April 10. After an early breakfast we left for a 4 hour walk, the Inland Pack Track. We had to cross a river to start, take off our boots and away we went. After the walk the drove to Motueka ( another 4 to 5 hours in winding roads. We are really getting us to drive  the zic zag, going around and around  up or down in the mountains.

MOTUEKA ( pop 6900)
Motueka est une belle petite ville tres visite par les jenes voyageurs car c' est l' endroit ou les gens viennent faire une des 10 plus belles randonnees en NZ...The Abel Tasman Trail...marche de 51 km au total qui se fait habituellement entre 3 et 5 jours. Le parc ( Kahurangi National Park) est remplie de toutes sortes de randonnees mais le plus populaire est celui qui suit la cote (bord de la mer)...Etant donne que nous voulions faire et visiter differents endroits nous avons completer seulement une partie de la Abel Tasman Trail...soit 22 km (G.F) et 12 km pour G.B. Nous sommes partis en bateau de  Marahau  (45 min.) pour nous rendre a Bark Bay...de la nous avons commence la marche...super belle...le sentier suit le bord de la cote et les vues sont incroyables...la marche est facile et sur un terrain tres doux pour les pieds...G.B a arrete a Anchorage(le bateau repassait le prendre a  16h00) alors que j'ai continuer jusqu'a Marahau...a mon arrivee...une bonne petite biere afin de celebrer ma belle marche et course car je me suis amuse en faisant un excellent workout...la temperature etait super belle et chaude pour le temps de l'annee...et pas de petite mouches noires...de retour a l' endroit ou nous couchions, nous sommes alles voir un film avec nos hotes (Gail et Doug de l' Association Affordable Travel pour 30$ la nuit pour 2 personnes)...un film assez difficile nous montrant la realite de la vie pour les gens en Chine...il engage des jeunes ...beaucoup trop jeunes (12-a 16 ans) pour travailler dans des usines de textiles(pour produire des vetements a tres bon marche pour les pays riches tels: Canada, USA, Australia, etc. Les conditions de travail sont ridicules ...ils ne sont presques pas payer, ils n' ont pas de pause, les temps supplementaires ne sont pas renumeres, ils sont loges dans les coins de l' usine non employes et plusieurs ensembles...affreux...Message a retenir...nous sommes responsable car nous encourageons ces grosses compagnies en voulant acheter a pris toujours moins cher...Walt-Mart(prix pas cher mais ils font en sorte que plusieurs personnes ne sont pas traites equitablement et dans des conditions pas tres humaines) est un des noms qui a ete nomme dans le film...cela m'a juste fait comprendre que notre societe de consommation...apporte pleins de probleme et fais en sorte que nous epuisons les richesses naturelles de notre belle planete...nous devons arreter de consommer a un tel rythme car nos enfants n' auront pas un futur tre prometteur... 
Le 12 au matin nous avons decider d' aller visiter le nord de l' ile du sud...Collingwood, Takaka et plusieurs petits village sur The Golden Bay. Les montees pour se rendre la-bas sont tres etroites et raides mais les paysages a coupes le souffle ! Nous avons fait des randonnees, visiter les plus grandes  sources d' eau naturelle au monde (Pupu Spring)...14 000 litres par seconde...l' eau est d'une transparence incroyable..et tres froide. La visite de ces endroits vaut le detour...car il n'y a pas beaucoup de touristes qui s'y rendent...nous avons encore une fois coucher dans un petit hostel appele The "Farewell Garden" a Patonga...fin de la route, on ne peut pas aller plus loin...
Nous sommes revenu coucher a Motueka le 13 au soir apres un bon repas PIZZA...


Motueka is usually used as a base or stop-over en route to Golden Bay and the Abel Tasman Trail and the Kahurangi National Parks. In the Summer it is a bustling place. We are fortunate to come at this time both because it is now Autumn and less people and the weather is warmer than it usually is. Again we are very lucky for the weather even though it can get kind of cool at night.

Where we stayed: with Doug and Gail, AFC( Affortable travel exchange group) costing us $30 NZ with breakfast included. They are very friendly and helpful in helping choose what to go and see and do.

April 11: After a great breakfast we go to the Info center and decide to do one day on the Abel TAsman  Walk, one of the NZ Famous 10 Walks. So we hurry to drive to Marahau (25 min), the last town we can drive to  do the Walk. From there we take the Sea Taxi (45 min) to Bark Bay where we start our walk. We walk to Anchorage Bay ( 3hours walk, 12 kms) Gilles F. continues for another 3 hours to Marahau town( total 22 kms) and I take the water taxi back to Marahau. On our way back we saw a whole group of dolphins like I have never seen before. When I arrived Gilles F. was already there, he ran most of the way back. Sometimes I do a shorter walk than he does so that he can go on his own speed to do what he calls his workout.

At night we went to see a movie with our hosts, A movie made in China on the horrrible conditions (under age...) of the workers who work overtime most of the time without being paid extra, sometimes they work all night with very little sleep and live in very, very basic conditions in the factories.A very sad movie to see yet very important for us to know that this is still happening...please do not buy from WALMART...the retailers are the one who make money...but do not care at all about the human conditions...

April 12 : We decided to go at the top north of the South Island on the West coast to explore the Golden Bay. From Motueka the roads continues to steadily  wind over Takaka Hill with magnificient, dramatic scenery on onwards to Takata and Collingwood. Here againwe realize that it was a good choice to buy our car to be able to do this trip also and explore this beautiful region. We already did 3000 km with our car...

Takaka: pop 1230
It is one of the most realxed towns in NZ,. It is the centre for the Golden Bay area and the last town of any size as you head towards the northwestern corner of the South Island. it is a bustling place in the Summer with a local community of "Woodstock children" and artistic types.

Collingwood  pop 250 is the next very small town on the way up. We stopped for a beer in Onekaka which is a little bar in the middle of nothing and they make their own beer. We were strongly recommended to stop there .We were glad we did , it is very typical of the region, they have music (Jam session) starting at 21h00 but we were to far from there to come back.  We made it to Pakawau and finally to Paponga, the western tip of the South Island. One cafe and info centre that 's it, almost.
Where we stayed:  Farewell Garden, a camping where they also have little cabins. We  went to Paponga to be close to the walk we wanted to do the next morning.We cooked our dinner and we went to bed at 8:30,> Nothing else to do , even to dark to go for a little walk.

April 13: We got up early, had our breakfast and left fot our walk to  WhararikiBeach. This isolated beach is a further 7km along an unsealed road(gravel), and then a 20 minute walk from the car park over farmland( cows and sheeps). It's a wild introduction to the West Coast, with unusual  dune formations, two looming rock islets just out from shore and a seal colony. We went there because we were told we had to see that part of the South Island, a very beautiful beach and unsual scenery. Another interesting reason is to see baby seal frolicking in the stream on the walk here. We can only go and see them on low tide, so we had to leave early since the low tide was very early today. Is was fun to see the baby seal and we also saw a mother seal with her young one. They came really close to us. (2 hour Walk).

After the walk we had a cafe in the very original cafe , called the Paddle Crab Kitchen, the only one there with a  great superb view of the Goden Bay  and the Farewell Spit which is a wetland of international importance and a reknowed bird sanctuary. Is 26 km beach long which  sand dunes.  It's bleak, unprotected and unusual country.

We then started to drive back to Mortueka and we stopped a few places to do 2 more walks for a total of 5 hours during the day.: The Milnthorpe Park, scenic reserve and scuplture trail and the Te Waikopopupu Springs. Simply called "pupu" , these are the largest freswater springs in NZ and the clearest in the world. It is amazing, about 14 000L of water ( 40 bathtubs full) a second is thrown up from a number of underground vents dotted around the Pupu Springs Scenic Reserve.

We made it to  through the very winding road to Motueka. WE went for dinner ( pizza= excellent) and then to the internet to update the blog and facebook.


Le 14 au matin apres un bon dejeuner avec nos hotes, nous avons pris la route pour Nelson(population : 43 000) afin d' y passer la nuit avant de nous rendre a Picton le 15 en fin de journee. La pluit a commence au milieu de l' apres midi et a continue toute la nuit.  Nous avons couche dans un hostel (50 $) et avons marcher un peu afin de visiter cette belle petite ville. Il y avait beaucoup de jeunes voyageurs. Nous avons ete voir un fil en soiree...une comedie amoureuse..

le 15 avril, petit dejeuner et mise a jour de notre journal de bord (blog) en matinee et ensuite direction Picton...derniere petite ville que nous allons visiter sur l'Ile du sud de la NZ...population de 4 000 habitants..tres jolie...entouree de montagnes et vue splendide sur l' ocean...nous restons dans un auberge de jeunesse (Sequoia backpacker Lodge) tres propre et avec prix tres raisonable (50 $)...nous avons terminer la journee avec un bon repas dans un resto Thai et par de la lecture...

APRIL 14: Going to Nelson
After a good and last breakfast with our hosts in  Motueka and Giles F. catching up with the blog we left around 12 for Nelson(2Hours). We arrived in Nelson and it started to rain and it rained on and off the rest of the day and all night. On our way to Nelson we say some flooded areas in the valleys.

NELSON REGION
The Nelson Region is one of the top destinations for travellers to NZ. and for the locals. It boasts a great climate ( more sunshine than any other parts ofNZ) top beaches, and some fo the most popular national parks(Kahuranji, Nelson Lakes and Abel Tasman) in the coun ry. We have spent some time in each of them.

NESLON (POPULATION 43,500)
Nelson is one of NZ's most liveable cities, it is a braight , active place and an obvious starting point for exploring the western coasta region.It's noted for its fruit-growing, winearies and breweries and its energtci arts and crafts community; there's no shortage of activcities(sedate and thrilling) to keep you busy.

WHERE WE STAYED: Nelson Backpackers ( $48 NZ).

APRIL 15:  After breakfast and getting acaught up with the blog we left for Picton, still raining on and off ..

MARLBOROUGH REGION We are now in a different region again. The convoluted , sheltered waterways of the Marlborough Sounds are the first sight of the South Island for many visitors. Picton is the gateway to the island and a prime spot for walking, sailing, kayaking and exploring the many hideaways in the Sounds.

PICTON.(population of 4000)
Picton is th elast city of the eastern part of the South Island.
It is a pretty port at th head of Queen Charlotte Sound.It is the marine gateway to the South Island and also the best base from which t explore the Marlborough Sounds, particulary the Queen Charlott Track.
It was still rlaining when we arrived. We are not surprised since they told us that it would rain for the next three days. Poeple here are very happy since they need the rain..So we rested and had a sleep after eating. We went for a walk and stopped at an Thai restaurant for dinner.

WHERE WE STAYED: Another Backpackers, a beautiful  place ((50NZ).

Par Gilles
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